Sunday 5th Feb we flew into Christchurch in preparation for our trip around the South Island of NZ. Marty & I spent the afternoon looking about downtown Christchurch, which has been devastated by earthquakes. Although it was a unique opportunity, I hope never to see another earthquake damaged city in my life – it’s really pretty depressing.
However, out of the red zone a shopping precinct has been created using shipping containers. They call it a ‘pop up mall’ and it’s great.
Christchurch must have been a lovely city, with the Avon River and extensive parks right on the edge of the Downtown area. Still some nice things persist!
A lovely Vespa (my very first bike was a Vespa and I love them still)
Punting on the Avon River
Monday morning a chauffeur in a limo collected us from our motel and took us to the pick up point for the motorcycles. We rented from a company called Paradise Motorcycle Tours mainly as we were able to reduce the damage excess to $500, where as the other companies had a $2,500 excess and generally older motorcycles. We had a safety briefing from Trevor and packed our gear onto the bikes. Marty had opted for the BMW F650 (800cc engine!) and I had an F800GS, which, even with the “low seat” (850mm) option, I struggled with a bit when parking for the whole trip.
Day 1 (470kms) Christchurch, Kaikoura, Picton, Queen Charlotte Drive to Nelson. Great sunny weather and brilliant roads.
Day 2 (440kms) Nelson, Collingwood, Murchison to Westport – one of the very best days of motorcycling ever!! Sensational scenery and weather.
Views from Mt Hope
Scenic roads and virtually no trafficMurchison area Friendly motorcyclists. Just about everybody an a bike waves here!Day 3 (420kms) Down the West coast from Westport to Haast via Hokitika, Franz Joseph & Fox glaciers. Again, magnificent scenery, twisty roads and great sunny weather. The highlight of this day was without doubt a helicopter flight over the glaciers and Mt Cook, with a snow landing to view Mt Cook – I’ve run out of superlatives!!
I could crash several servers with the spectacular pics from this day! Great ocean side twisties.
Pancake rocksGlacier countryTarsnakes on top of the world!
Tarsnakes & Marty posing in front of the Hughes chopper
Day 4 (370kms) Haast to Te Anau via Wanaka, Cardrona and Arrowtown. The forecast was for rain and we rode Haast Pass in drizzle, but it was still spectacular and extremely enjoyable. Haast Pass was one of Marty’s favorite sections so far.
Views from summit of Crown rangeArrowtownA big thanks to Mary & Rennie at the Arran Motel in Te Anau. Bikers themselves, our bikes were safe in Rennie’s garage having displaced his car. That friendly service, reasonable prices, a spotless room and high speed broadband make the Arran a motel that I highly recommend to International travelers.
Day 5: (415kms)Te Anau to Milford Sound, back to Te Anau 7 hrs later, then we took the Southern Route to Riverton – the digs that we had booked there were terrible so we rode on to Invercargil. Stange weather today, sunny and warm at Milford Sound (I hear that occurs about 10 times per year), then sunny but freezing cold (8C – 12C) between Te Anau and Invercargil (one rain shower though).
On the road to Milford Sound
Day 6 : (375kms) Invercargill, Bluff, Invercargill, Great Southern Route to Alexandra.
Yep, it’s the genuine article – not the movies mock up.Lots of other historic bikes there as well.Bluff is the southernmost mainland point on the South Island, hence the ‘Lands End’ comparison.
Day 7: (392 kms) Alexandra to Methven via Lindis Pass. It was around 6.5C and sunny when we headed off from Alexandra and although it remained sunny, it got colder through the valleys. I saw 3C ambient at one stage and much of the ride was at or below 10C. I wore layers of Icebreaker Marino wool garments, but was still a little, actually a lot, cold. There was some irony in that as the area we rode through had signs boasting that this area was the home of of Marino wool for Icebreaker garments, though they neglected to mention that the Icebreaker range is now largely made in China, unlike some other NZ specialist Marino garments.
They really do street racing here!Day 8: (458 kms) Methven to Hanmer Springs, via Arthur’s Pass and Lewis Pass. Again we set off in drizzle which became rain and some quite low temps. We were both thinking that the prudent thing may be to quit riding today and go straight to Christchurch and a warm motel room. However, we persisted and by Lake Pearson the drizzle and fog had lifted and the temp rose. When we reached the West Coast it was a warm sunny day! We had a brilliant ride along Lewis Pass and it reminded me a lot of parts of BC in Canada.
Lake Pearson, lots of folk camped lakeside here.
Avalanche protectionBeware the Kea, (look at that beak) they are incredibly destructive birds – like a gang of vandals who attack anything rubber on a vehicle or bike. I saw a parked car having its wiper blades torn up & a bicycle with its hand grips shredded. We actually carried extra insurance against them tearing up the seats on our motorcycles, which they love to do! That evening we enjoyed happy hour at the Heritage Lodge – their only customers!
Day 9: (140 kms) Hanmer Springs to Christchurch to return the motorcycle at 9.00am as arranged. A highlight of this little early morning ride was being stopped by a large flock of sheep on the road and watching the farmer and his 3 dogs herd them through a gate into a nearby paddock. An iconic rural NZ situation. The traffic and weather going into Christchurch were terrible, pouring rain and stop-start traffic for about 5 kms.
Marty planned a sensational route for our trip through the South Island, and full credit to him for that and also for being an easy going traveling buddy. Thanks mate! We had ridden the four iconic South Island Passes – Arthurs, Haast, Lindis and Lewis – as well as ridden from Collingwood in the north to Bluff in the south. We were in agreement, this was our best summer trip ever. All up around 3,500 kms without mishap on some of the best and most scenic motorcycling roads available. As the young kids say “Living the dream”!
Also, a very big thank you to Mrs Tarsnakes for being so supportive of me taking a motorcycling trip like this – I’m a very lucky ‘fella!
I’ve had a couple of emails commenting on the quality of some of my pics which I appreciate very much. I’d like to recommend to all of you who are beginners with outdoor photography a great new eBook regarding camera choices and beginners’ tips for outdoor photography. It’s put out by our friends Frank & Sue at “Our Hiking Blog”. Here’s the link to their eBook Outdoor photography – beginners.